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I've learned Inkscape to make the laser cutting files needed to cut the enclosure of a speaker.
The design is almost finished, I just have two questions:
-When I save in any other file extention than Inkscape SVG, when I open it the document properties will be reset.
I'm worried about the laser not lining up, how do I set the print area?
-My measurements are off by 0.35mm. Not that big of a deal since everything scaled up, but how is it caused and how do I fix it?
My files are attached
Sorry if these questions are already answered, I'm new to this forum ^^
Set print area and get the dimensions right
Set print area and get the dimensions right
- Attachments
-
- Boominator REV1 outside.svg
- (7.51 KiB) Downloaded 248 times
-
- Boominator REV1 inside.svg
- (16.34 KiB) Downloaded 242 times
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
Hi.
0,35 mm sounds quite small.
Did you changed the svg output settings to maximum accuracy in the inkscape preferences panel (Shift+Ctrl+P)?
If it is set that way from the start, it may avoid such problem.
0,35 mm sounds quite small.
Did you changed the svg output settings to maximum accuracy in the inkscape preferences panel (Shift+Ctrl+P)?
If it is set that way from the start, it may avoid such problem.
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
Thanks for your reply,
Where can I find the accuracy option in the preferences panel?
Where can I find the accuracy option in the preferences panel?
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
Hi.
To further investigate this; does your interlocking tabs get too tight or too lose due to the "0.35mm off"
What is 0.35mm off? Total height of enclosure outside? One tab?
A little more information would be nice.
Lazur;
In woodworking 0.35mm off a measurement can determine if you can assemble a joint or not, 0.35mm is a lot!
Sometimes the errors 'accumulate' as well, if you are drilling an array of holes or laying out fingers for a finger joint and the measurement are 0.35mm
of on the first one and you measure the same distance between subsequent holes or fingers you will have 3.5mm error after 10 holes or fingers.
0.35mm is a mile!
http://www.insidewoodworking.com/box-joint-jig.html
To achieve the required accuracy some router fences have a dial indicator where you adjust to a thousand of an inch.
http://patwarner.com/routerfence.html
RGDS
Ragnar
To further investigate this; does your interlocking tabs get too tight or too lose due to the "0.35mm off"
What is 0.35mm off? Total height of enclosure outside? One tab?
A little more information would be nice.
Lazur;
0,35 mm sounds quite small.
In woodworking 0.35mm off a measurement can determine if you can assemble a joint or not, 0.35mm is a lot!
Sometimes the errors 'accumulate' as well, if you are drilling an array of holes or laying out fingers for a finger joint and the measurement are 0.35mm
of on the first one and you measure the same distance between subsequent holes or fingers you will have 3.5mm error after 10 holes or fingers.
0.35mm is a mile!
http://www.insidewoodworking.com/box-joint-jig.html
To achieve the required accuracy some router fences have a dial indicator where you adjust to a thousand of an inch.
http://patwarner.com/routerfence.html
RGDS
Ragnar
Good Luck!
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
RGDS
Ragnar
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
RGDS
Ragnar
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
It's 0,35mm off per part. So if I dial in a 100x100mm cube, it comes out as a 100,35x100,35 cube. I assume the whole box scales evenly, but i'm not sure. This is why I ask, because it's a notched box and thus has to be very precise.
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
Oh my.
For that thesis project I'm making some mass models from wood, with the only tools of a bow saw and a rasp with no handle.
I would be very happy if I had only 0,35 mm differences.
Fortunately rapid prototyping isn't necessary to be quality carpenter job.
Coming from the architect field cm accuracy is quite OK.
0,35 mm is the line width of a regular line on the plans.
On the topic -maybe boolean operation's inaccuracy can help it, as that usually makes objects smaller a bit?
For that thesis project I'm making some mass models from wood, with the only tools of a bow saw and a rasp with no handle.
I would be very happy if I had only 0,35 mm differences.
Fortunately rapid prototyping isn't necessary to be quality carpenter job.
Coming from the architect field cm accuracy is quite OK.
0,35 mm is the line width of a regular line on the plans.
On the topic -maybe boolean operation's inaccuracy can help it, as that usually makes objects smaller a bit?
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
Hi.
Inkscape adds the width of the stroke to objects, if you make a box lets say 100.00 by 100.00mm with fill but no stroke the width will be 100.00 by 100.00
If you then add a 0.5mm stroke the box will be 100.50mm (Center of stroke will still be at 100.00 by 100.00 apart).
Have a look at this; http://wiki.imal.org/howto/inkscape-and-lasercutter
To make a tabbed box like yours there are a 'Tabbed box' extension.
http://www.inkscapeforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10403
http://hackaday.com/2012/07/26/box-maker-extension-for-inkscape/
Download from here; https://github.com/hellerbarde/inkscape-boxmaker
Off topic;
Lazur;
Exactly! http://www.newwoodworker.com/cutlines.html
That's why marking with pencils are a no-no for precision woodworking!
The tool used to mark precisely is a marking knife or marking gouge.
http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Using-Marking-Tools-7612.aspx
I am in the process of making this "contraption" to get accurate box joints;
https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig.html
Careful with the rasp with no handle - quite a few accidents happens when the rasp 'stalls'
and the pointed end of the handle 'digs into' your wrist or arm!
The vein in your wrist are just a few mm under the skin!
At least wrap some electrical tape around the pointed end of the rasp!
I am a firm believer that accidents don't happen - they are caused!
( A lot of times by stupidity! Been there - Done that!! )
Take care!
Regards
Ragnar
Inkscape adds the width of the stroke to objects, if you make a box lets say 100.00 by 100.00mm with fill but no stroke the width will be 100.00 by 100.00
If you then add a 0.5mm stroke the box will be 100.50mm (Center of stroke will still be at 100.00 by 100.00 apart).
Have a look at this; http://wiki.imal.org/howto/inkscape-and-lasercutter
To make a tabbed box like yours there are a 'Tabbed box' extension.
http://www.inkscapeforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10403
http://hackaday.com/2012/07/26/box-maker-extension-for-inkscape/
Download from here; https://github.com/hellerbarde/inkscape-boxmaker
Off topic;
Lazur;
0,35 mm is the line width of a regular line on the plans.
Exactly! http://www.newwoodworker.com/cutlines.html
That's why marking with pencils are a no-no for precision woodworking!
The tool used to mark precisely is a marking knife or marking gouge.
http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Article/Using-Marking-Tools-7612.aspx
I am in the process of making this "contraption" to get accurate box joints;
https://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig.html
For that thesis project I'm making some mass models from wood,
with the only tools of a bow saw and a rasp with no handle.
Careful with the rasp with no handle - quite a few accidents happens when the rasp 'stalls'
and the pointed end of the handle 'digs into' your wrist or arm!
The vein in your wrist are just a few mm under the skin!
At least wrap some electrical tape around the pointed end of the rasp!
I am a firm believer that accidents don't happen - they are caused!
( A lot of times by stupidity!
Been there - Done that!! )Take care!
Regards
Ragnar
Good Luck!
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
RGDS
Ragnar
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
RGDS
Ragnar
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
But I'm using 0,010 line width? Maybe I should dial that in before making the objects, or doesn't that matter?
I made the tabbed box using the extensions, saves you a lot of work!
And does someone know how you set the print area? Because when I load it in Rhino it appears off centre.
I already use the correct document properties in Inkscape but they only save when you use Inkscape SVG it seems.
I made the tabbed box using the extensions, saves you a lot of work!
And does someone know how you set the print area? Because when I load it in Rhino it appears off centre.
I already use the correct document properties in Inkscape but they only save when you use Inkscape SVG it seems.
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
Anyway, is my design 'cutter-ready'? Did I forget anything?
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
There are some double nodes unconnected at the corners.
Not sore if the cutter would stop there, but you may rectangle select all nodes and connect unconnected ones with the node tool.
At the boominator panel there are rectangles and ellipses instead of paths, maybe those would be better converted to be paths (Shift+Ctrl+C)?
Other than that the lettering has too few nodes.
Check out this site for engraving fonts:
http://www.mrrace.com/CamBam_Fonts/
Not sore if the cutter would stop there, but you may rectangle select all nodes and connect unconnected ones with the node tool.
At the boominator panel there are rectangles and ellipses instead of paths, maybe those would be better converted to be paths (Shift+Ctrl+C)?
Other than that the lettering has too few nodes.
Check out this site for engraving fonts:
http://www.mrrace.com/CamBam_Fonts/
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
Hi.
Several ways to make the text, one is to use the 'Hersey fonts.'
Another way of making text which I use for eggbot;
For the text, instead of using single stroke text you can make the text as normal,
set a stroke and then convert the stroke to a path.
To fill in the text use the hatching as described here; http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Hatch_fill
RGDS
Ragnar
Several ways to make the text, one is to use the 'Hersey fonts.'
Another way of making text which I use for eggbot;
For the text, instead of using single stroke text you can make the text as normal,
set a stroke and then convert the stroke to a path.
To fill in the text use the hatching as described here; http://wiki.evilmadscientist.com/Hatch_fill
RGDS
Ragnar
Good Luck!
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
RGDS
Ragnar
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
RGDS
Ragnar
Re: Set print area and get the dimensions right
The text is made with Hersey's Text 
Then 'simplified' to smooth it.
I will have a look at the nodes, thanks for all the help!
Then 'simplified' to smooth it. I will have a look at the nodes, thanks for all the help!